Frequently Asked Questions

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Vinyl is available in white, tan, beige and khaki. We also carry two “woodlook” vinyl materials that are available in a Dark Brown, Tan and Grey. We also carry Timbertech composite fence, deck railing and decking.

A vinyl fence project will last for 40 plus years. Now, most products carry a “Lifetime Warranty” which is good for the original homeowner and it is usually transferable, depending on the manufacturer. With 21 years of experience installing vinyl fence we have not seen it deteriorate yet.

If you are getting wood quotes be sure to get pressure treated posts, rails and top caps, and at a minimum cedar boards fastened with stainless steel screws, or galvanized nails. With that, a brand new wood fence will last for 8-15 years depending on its exposure. A wood fence will generally cost about 20-25% less than a vinyl fence. If you choose wood DON’T paint it. It will be like digging your own grave. The maintenance becomes annual. Before you know your wood fence costs more than vinyl after only a few years. You do the math.

If you are comparing Wrought Iron to Vinyl you need to be sure it is as close to an apples to apples comparison as possible. That means the iron needs to be hot-dipped galvanized and powder coated. With that, your Iron fence will last for close to 20 years but will need to be maintained with sanding and painting annually.

Vinyl will last for 40 plus years with virtually zero maintenance.

With this comparison vinyl will be less expensive than Iron. If you compare the Iron that Home Depot carries to our Vinyl. HD will be significantly less expensive, but I have had several complaints from HD consumers stating their iron fence started rusting within 3-6 months of installation.

Like the 80’s Glam Bands, Mono Extruded used to be all the rage. That is until manufacturer’s realized how unnecessary it was. In a mono extruded profile there is only one layer (mono). The problem is that that one layer has a maximum of 7-8% of the UV inhibitors that keep Vinyl Fence from yellowing.

In Co-Extruded there are actually two layers. There is an inside layer that has around 8% UV inhibitors, and the outside layer that has 10-12% UV inhibitors. Most manufacturers have only 10% on the outside but a select few use 12%. It is the outside of the profile that takes all of the abuse of the elements, not the inside.

The story that coextruded profiles have recycled materials on the inside is mostly NOT true. The inside material is Virgin Vinyl, not “re-grind” or recycled vinyl.The inside vinyl is NOT Dark Brown. It is almost always the same color, or close to the same color as the outside color of the profile.

Beware, there are manufacturer’s that do use “regrind” on the inside of their profiles. This is usually a darker color. These manufacturers are almost always the lesser experienced, newer, and ABSOLUTELY CHEAPER of the industry. But, you get what you pay for.

Different manufacturer’s offer different warranties. Some have fixed 30 year warranties, others offer a “Lifetime Warranty.” The issues to be aware of are:

1. How long has the manufacturer been in business?
This is important because a “Lifetime Warranty” from a manufacturer who has only been in business a couple of years is not very stable. The longer the history and larger the company the more stable the Warranty.

2. Is the warranty transferable?
A “Lifetime Warranty” is great for you, but if when you sell your house it does not transfer to the new owner you will be left up the creek without a paddle. Double check this. It is a big one.

3. Is the warranty prorated, or non-prorated?
This is like buying tires for your car. If you have a warranty claim they will only give you money back for the lifespan of the tire not used.

Is the manufacturer in China? If so, how do you plan on filing a claim? I have heard some horror stories about dealing with overseas manufacturers. Also, how long has your installer been buying material from their current manufacturer because ultimately they will be the liason between you and the manufacturer.

Make sure that whoever you choose to use as your installer that they are licensed for the scope of work they will be doing i.e C-13 for Fence, etc..Also, make sure they have the appropriate workman’s compensation information, liability info, and not using “sub-contractors”,etc… If one of the above is missing and something were to go wrong with your project, the liability will be on you as a homeowner instead of the contractor.

Vinyl Fence America is the installation division of Vinyl Mart Depot. Both companies are owned by Eddie Dossey Sr. Vinyl Fence America is a fully licensed C-13 fence contractor with liability insurance and workman’s compensation.

Vinyl specifications test at 5 times the flexibility of a wood fence. However, most companies install their Vinyl post in JUST A CONCRETE FOOTING. Because of the flexibility of vinyl that post will now flex up to 6-8” in a strong wind. Now, please tell me why that is okay with homeowners? It is bad enough that Vinyl is shinny white, why let your installer shortcut you and not reinforce the post?

Vinyl Fence America will set your hollow vinyl post in a 24” deep and 10” wide concrete footing, and then fill the inside of the post with concrete up to 4’ above ground level and one piece of ½” x 5’ rebar per post. That ties the entire length of the post above the ground into the concrete footing in the ground. This is the same way Caltrans builds their freeway overpasses and bridges. It is the same way a concrete patio is poured. If there is no rebar, the concrete will crack.

Now, some companies claim this voids the manufacturer’s warranty because it will crack the post. NOT TRUE!!!!!!!!!!!! Remember, vinyl is flexible and that is why it will not crack the post. In fact, we have 21 years experience installing our post with concrete and rebar inside. How many years experience does our competition have?

Vinyl fence is extremely easy to clean. It can be cleaned usually by just hosing it down. If that does not work, try a little 409 and a rag with some elbow grease. As a last resort, use laquer thinner and a cloth rag. That will get it spick and span clean. Make sure you hose it down after you are finished.

Vinyl Fence is extremely durable when installed correctly. Like anything, however, contractors take shortcuts. So, do your homework and make sure the installation technique being used will give you an installation that will last just as long as your new vinyl fence.

You will see common shortcuts in the rest of the Vinyl Advocate page.

All of our vinyl privacy fence posts are installed in a 24” deep by 10” wide concrete footing and filled 4’ above ground with concrete and one piece of ½” rebar.

Our gate posts are filled full with concrete and 2 pieces of ½” rebar.

Most of our fence posts for front yard and decorative fences are installed in a18” deep by 8” wide concrete footing only.

When we install our privacy fence posts on top of a concrete wall we drill two ½” holes into the wall and epoxy set rebar, then we put the post over the top and fill it 2/3 full with concrete. Those posts are as strong as the wall at that point.

Our vinyl fence system is a route and lock system. It goes together similar to an erector set. The rails are inserted into the post, the tongue and groove boards are inserted into a slotted rail, and the capped off with the top rail which is slotted too. That rail is then inserted into the post where a stainless steel screw locks it into place. With this system the center of the privacy panel is as strong as the post.

The fence system that Home Depot carries is a bracketed system. Their posts are a thinner walled material that is designed to sleeve over an existing wood post. Then they sell a dinky plastic bracket that is supposed to withstand 60 mph wind gust, dogs jumping on it, etc… That bracket is all that holds the fence panel together. Depending on what panel you are looking at it is likely glued together. That glue is going to corrode after a few years and then you will be left maintaining your “maintenance free fence” once again.

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